In the heart of Savannah, excitement is brewing as the renowned Grey restaurant approaches its tenth anniversary, and the celebration couldn’t come at a better time. Chef Mashama Bailey, who turned 50 on Bastille Day, is bubbling over with joy and pride. Bailey, along with her business partner, Johno Morisano, plans to ring in this major milestone on Saturday, December 14, 2024, at their beloved eatery.
Since opening in 2014, The Grey has not only made its mark on the Savannah culinary scene but has transformed it entirely—both physically and metaphorically. Bailey, hailing from Queens, is a trailblazer in the culinary world, having previously served as the sous-chef at New York City’s acclaimed Prune. After spending some of her childhood in Savannah and embracing her Southern roots, she partnered with Morisano, a Staten Island native, to bring their vision to life.
The duo took on the challenge of revitalizing a dilapidated mid-century Greyhound bus station, transforming it into a chic restaurant while preserving its rich history. One can’t help but admire how they’ve managed to retain historical details, even showcasing signs that remind patrons of the location’s past as a segregated transit depot. This commitment to honoring history has been recognized across the board, with the restaurant receiving accolades for its preservation efforts.
In just ten years, The Grey has impressed the food scene, earning Chef Bailey two prestigious James Beard Foundation awards: one for Best Chef Southeast in 2019 and another in 2022 for Outstanding Chef. The restaurant consistently appears on various annual “best of” lists—not just for its delectable dishes, but also for its thoughtfully curated wine selection. To share their journey, Bailey and Morisano published a memoir titled Black, White, and The Grey: The Story of an Unexpected Friendship and a Beloved Restaurant in early 2021, offering readers an intimate look into their partnership.
To think that about 60% of new restaurants fail within their first year is staggering, but The Grey has navigated through many challenges. The American Restaurant Association cites factors like undercapitalization, high staff turnover, and basic business mismanagement as reasons for such heartbreak. And Bailey and Morisano have faced their share of hurdles. There were moments when they felt like failure was imminent. “We’re not profitable because we reinvest everything we make back into the business,” Bailey explains, highlighting their commitment to creating a workplace where employees can thrive. “We’ve made a lot of financial sacrifices to build a place where we want to work.”
As they look ahead to the next decade, Bailey has realized the importance of building a sustainable culture within their restaurant. “I think the biggest ‘aha’ moment in the 10 years is understanding how to grow it,” she expressed. “First it was pure grit. Then it was about systems—how do we ensure the growth of our team and not just ourselves?” This means transitioning from a sentiment-driven passion project to a well-oiled machine that can attract and maintain talented staff.
Reflecting on the challenges of the pandemic, Bailey notes they had to pivot rapidly. “We created limited tasting menus and set up yurts so guests could dine safely. But as time went on, people didn’t want this kind of dining experience anymore.”
Despite having to shutter their lunch counter-bodega, Grey Market, in 2023 and grappling with setbacks from an expansion to Austin, Bailey’s renewed focus is on finding the joy that first fueled their passion. She has recently reintroduced cherished menu items, such as pickled oysters and house-aged steaks, which are inspired by historical recipes and her dedication to preserving culinary traditions.
“It feels like we’re becoming more mature rather than just growing. I want to empower my team, not keep changing things that make them feel unsure,” she said confidently. This fresh perspective has sparked a new enthusiasm within The Grey.
With plans for a new restaurant in Paris already in the works, Bailey and Morisano are openly excited and optimistic about the future. “Johno and I make each other better,” she shared, reflecting on their partnership. “The biggest thing I’m proud of is how our bond has solidified through the years.” It’s clear that The Grey isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a living story of resilience, community, and the magic that can happen when passion meets purpose.
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