Crabbing in Beaufort: A Tradition on the Morgan River Faces New Challenges

Crabbing in Beaufort: A Day on the Morgan River

This morning in Beaufort, South Carolina, the sun peeked through the clouds, and a muggy 71-degree air surrounded the water. As the boat glided smoothly across the glassy surface of the Morgan River, captain Brett Everett and his crew, William Beveride and “Lucky” Alewine, were not out for a leisurely ride. No, they were gearing up for a hard day’s work, pulling metal cages from the water in hopes of snagging some prized Atlantic blue crabs.

The Treasures of the Lowcountry

These blue crabs, celebrated for their sweet flavor and vibrant blue claws, are a genuine Lowcountry gem, sought after up and down the East Coast. “They’re a delicacy,” Everett remarked, “but they’re mean as hell.” The intricate salt marshes along South Carolina’s coast provide an ideal habitat for these crustaceans, where they hunt for oysters, clams, and snails, hidden cleverly in the tall grasses.

The Crabbing Tradition

Fishing for blue crabs isn’t just a job for Everett; it’s a family tradition. He learned the ropes from his father and launched his commercial crabbing career in 1995. On his very first day, he made the equivalent of two weeks’ salary from his grocery store job. Today, he runs Rusty Crabs, a business tied deeply to the community and the coastal culture. He checks around 200 crab pots daily, often hauling in 10 bushels of these tasty creatures.

Regulations and Worries

However, change is on the horizon for South Carolina’s lucrative $6 million blue crab fishery, which ranks third in the state behind shrimp and finfish. After years of declining numbers and a lack of regulation, the state has decided to implement licensing and pot restrictions for both commercial and recreational crabbers in 2024. Everett worries these new regulations might hurt his business and force him to sell his boats.

The South Carolina Department of Natural Resources (SCDNR) emphasizes that these changes aim to protect the blue crab fishery’s future, as competition from rising prices and shortages in neighboring states has increased the pressure on local waters.

A Day on the River

The crew’s day begins before sunrise, with preparations leading up to their venture into the water. As they left Eddings Point and cruised into Jenkins Creek, the excitement in the boat was palpable. “Let’s go baby!” Beveride exclaimed as they approached the first set of pots, perfectly positioned to attract crabs.

“There’s a difference between hard work on water and hard work on land,” Alewine commented, as the crew hustled around the boat, hoisting pots and sorting the catch. Even as day turned to hot and humid, their enthusiasm remained unbroken.

Crab Catching Skills

Crabbing requires a diverse array of skills—from the mechanical know-how for fixing boat engines to the physical strength needed to pull heavy traps from the water. Once the crabs are caught, they must be carefully sorted. Any crab not measuring at least 5 inches between the eyes is released back into the river, while the keepers are quickly transferred into baskets.

As they worked, the laughter and banter of camaraderie echoed across the water. “Ahhh!” Alewine yelped in surprise as a feisty crab clamped down on his glove. The moment showcased the rugged charm of crabbing life—an adventure filled with unpredictable surprises.

Harvests and Markets

Once the day’s work is done, the crew heads home with their catch, but not without acknowledging the changing landscape of their industry. With the new regulations being implemented, there’s pressure not only to adapt but also to maintain quality. Everett ensures his crabs are of high caliber, focusing on mature specimens that his customers prefer.

As they unloaded their six baskets of freshly caught crabs, a customer named John Pierce was already waiting, eager to buy a couple of bushels. “They eat the crab more than they eat the shrimp,” he noted, attesting to the blue crab’s popularity, particularly when it comes from Rusty Crabs, renowned for their consistent quality.

A Rewarding Endeavor

After a demanding day on the river, Everett and his team savor the fruits of their labor—a delicious crab feast seasoned just right. “These days, people don’t know where their food comes from,” he grinned. With the taste of success evident not just in dollar signs but also in shared meals, the crew reflects on their journey, their passion for this hard work, and their love for the waters of the Lowcountry.

As the sun set on another day, the crew cleaned up, looking forward to the upcoming season. Their rhythmic dance of crabbing alive with hope for brighter days ahead amidst the shifting tides.